Yes, I went to Paris and bought a scarf

Today is my last day in Paris. Of course, it's also the day that I feel less tired and my feet aren't planning to somehow secede from the rest of my body. Isn't that always how the last day of a vacation works?

While I may not sport the latest designer fashions, I've always been an ardent follower of the major design houses, particularly Chanel. I remember receiving a bottle of Chanel No. 5 for a birthday present in my teens. The box was one of the Andy Warhol prints (I think I still have it somewhere). It was quite a jump from Debbie Gibson's Electric Youth perfume to Chanel No. 5 but that's the kind of girl that I am. When I graduated from high school my family took a trip to New York to see Rent (original cast y'all) and we made a stop at the Chanel store there. It was amazing.

I walked by several of the Chanel stores while here but didn't go in mostly because I'm certain that I looked like I had been walking around Paris all day and was not feeling the least bit fashionable. So how did I begin my last day in Paris? By visiting one of Coco Chanel's old haunts, Angelina. I had read about Angelina years ago in a biography of Chanel and then it came back up more recently as I read Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas. Thomas spent a year living in Paris and wrote about her visits to patisseries and boulangeries around the city. I recommend it to anyone interested in planning a trip to Paris based solely on eating sweets and bread.

The specialty of the house, le chocolat chaud l’Africain, is amazing. It's a rich, dark chocolate served in a small pot with whipped cream. It's heavenly. I also enjoyed some pastries with Angelina's mountain honey and strawberry jam. If you ever visit Angelina's make sure to have a croissant with honey. It's perfection. The tea room itself is the exact opposite of Coco Chanel's aesthetic - it's ornate with pastel murals and chandeliers. But elegant like Chanel. I'm glad that I got there when I did (early in the morning); when I walked by later it was packed and there was a long line.

After finishing breakfast, I continued walking down Rue de Rivoli past shops selling berets and miniature Eiffel Towers. It's been much colder than I anticipated so I broke down and bought a scarf. Actually, I bought three (one is a gift). I don't get scarves. I'm fine with them in the winter but I don't get the scarf as just an accessory (which is why I can never live in Paris I guess). Yesterday at breakfast, I was chatting with an Australian couple who was also not prepared for the cold weather. The husband was conflicted about the scarf his wife bought him. He felt his friends back home would laugh at him for wearing it. His wife argued that as long as he was warm what did it matter? He then proceeded to tell me about how she also made him buy a shoulder bag (he called it his "man bag") and that he couldn't wear the scarf and the bag at the same time. They were hilarious. I hope they enjoyed the Louvre (where they were headed for the day).

I don't really know how to wear a scarf but I was cold and honestly, the scarf helped. I may just start wearing the pink scarf randomly just to wear it. I tied it a few different ways but ended up settling with the wrap around and loose tie to keep it in place. I'm supposed to be embracing new fashion choices so maybe the scarf is my new thing. I can't say for certain but I'm willing to try it again when I get home.

I did some shopping along the way to take a boat cruise of the Seine. I'm not the best souvenir shopper but I'm hoping that everyone will like what I got them. I figured there's always shopping at the airport tomorrow too. I decided to skip Versailles this time and take the boat cruise instead (this just means I have to come back to go to Versailles - genius on my part). The cruise was a nice leisurely cruise that stopped at several key spots along the Seine if you wanted to disembark. I took some additional pictures from the boat and just enjoyed the quiet tour (you know, quiet for a boat full of tourists). I was able to sit inside for the cruise which was a really good choice. I had seen some of the sights along the route earlier in the week but not the areas between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Hôtel de Ville. I did the full loop once and then went back to the stop near the Louvre so I could visit my last stop of the afternoon.

I've stopped in several parks and gardens this week. That's something else I love about Paris - there are so many parks (and some are right off super busy streets but you don't notice the traffic once you're inside). Le Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileres Garden) is located between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. It was once a royal garden (remember the Louvre was actually a palace) and became a public park after the French Revolution. From the center, you can see all the way to the Arc de Triomphe. Had it been nicer out today, I probably would have stayed longer than I did. As I started walking back to the Metro, it started pouring again. Luckily, I was under a covered walkway and decided to stop at a cafe for a bit. I had a nice chat with some Americans in Paris on business. They were so excited to hear an American accent! We discussed our attempts at French (horrifying on all sides) and how traveling for work is not that much fun. I think they were a bit envious that I was here on holiday. They're off to Italy and the UK next.

I made it back to le petit studio before the skies opened up again. I'm hoping that by the time I finish packing the rain will have stopped and I can go out for a nice dinner and enjoy my final night in Paris.

Le Café des 2 Moulins

 

Amélie is one of my favorite movies. I've seen it way more times than I care to admit to and am always a little shocked when someone tells me they haven't seen it. It's got Audrey Tatou and garden gnomes and photo booth scavenger hunts and the guy from Delicatessen - what's not to love? The movie is a whimsical look at the life of Amélie, a shy woman who decides to start helping those around her and along the way, finds love. There's an eccentric cast of characters, many of whom frequent Le Café des 2 Moulins where Amélie works. She also has a reclusive neighbor, who repaints Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party and Amélie steals her father's garden gnome and sends it on adventures (to try to convince her father to go enjoy life). There's also a plot line involving photo booths at train stations (this is part of the love story) - I may have to take pictures in one of the booths tomorrow.

Amélie lives in Montmartre and the movie mainly takes place in this area. Montmartre is known for being the location of the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur as well as where many artists and writers lived and worked, particularly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Moulin Rouge is located here (it's one of the 2 Moulins the cafe is named for) as was Le Chat Noir. It's an interesting contrast - the basilica (the highest point in the city) and the decadent history of the surrounding area. The construction of the basilica was supposedly directly related to the moral decline of the French after the Revolution. It's definitely worth the trip from the center of Paris. It's not as touristy as it's made out to be.

Anyway, Montmartre is another part of Paris that I've wanted to visit since I first started planning this trip years ago. Originally, I had intended to stay in the area but that didn't work out (and I love le petit studio). One of the wonderful things about le petit studio is that there are 3 Metro stations within walking distance. One of them, Saint-Lazare, goes to several of the places I wanted to visit so it's been easy to get around. Now once I'm off the Metro, all bets are off. We know how terrible I am at directions (even with a map). I have the best intentions but usually end up several blocks (possibly even miles) from where I actually want to be and then I have a hard time finding my way back.

This is exactly what happened today. I knew that I had several choices for stations to get me to both Sacré-Cœur and Le Café des 2 Moulins, my destinations for the day. When I got off at the Lamarck – Caulaincourt station (this is the station where Amélie leaves the blind man after telling him all about what's happening around him), I missed the street to go up to the basilica. And then I'm not really sure what I did because I ended up nowhere near the basilica and kept turning myself around. Finally, I just got back on the Metro and got off at a different stop, the one I probably should have gone to in the first place. I guess I really don't wander very well now do I? I finally made my way to the basilica (follow the crowds). The street up is lined with gift shops and other street vendors. Once you get to the basilica, there are others selling knock-off purses and trying to get you to stand there while they make what looked like friendship bracelets. It was random. I didn't end up going all the way to the top but stayed at the base of the basilica for a while. Eventually it started to rain (and I was cold), so I made my way back down.

Yes, I could have walked to my next destination but I opted to take the Metro again since I knew exactly where I needed to go once I got to the Abbesses station. I did get a little turned around because Rue Lepic goes two different directions but I realized this quickly since the numbers were getting larger, turned around and found my way to Le Café des 2 Moulins. I almost walked by it but then I saw the movie poster inside and knew I had found my place. It was full inside so I took one of the last tables outside (despite the cold) and sat down to enjoy my visit. 

Sitting outside was a very good choice. The cafe is a great spot to watch people along the busy street. There are food stores of every type and a market at the bottom of the street. The part of the street I was on smelled like bread and rotisserie chicken. I also watched other people stop and take pictures of the cafe and talk about Amélie in hushed, reverent tones (in multiple languages). It was fun to sit on the little pink chair and watch Parisians go about their day. And the bread smell was just wonderful. I've eaten more bread in the last five days than a normal person should eat but I figure I also walk up and down 202 stairs each day so it's cool. I'm also totally in support of having a glass of wine at lunch. I've had rose (a favorite) at different cafes over the last few days and it's been lovely.

I've decided (at least as of today as I'm writing this) that what I love most about Paris is that it's not just one thing. If I were more of a foodie, I could have spent my entire time here eating amazing food probably in a thoroughly researched way. I could shop my way through Paris (if I were either extremely wealthy or enjoyed flea markets more). There was also the option to go to every museum possible - this would have been maddening. My first two days were filled with what I would describe as "the things everyone tells you to do in Paris" which are all lovely and worth seeing (just pretend like the crowds at the Louvre are there to see you). The past two days have felt more like a vacation - no real plan, just enjoying myself. I like that I combined must-sees with things that matter to me. Despite some crankiness on day two, I've done what I wanted to do and didn't let getting lost upset me (which probably would have happened a few years ago). I may have been a bit frustrated with my map reading abilities but I eventually figured things out and got to where I wanted to go.

Oh, and there was a clown leading a tour group past Le Café des 2 Moulins. Seems legit.

Amélie photo from Top Ten Filmz (top photo); all others by me

City of the Dead

We were living in Louisiana when my father turned 40. To celebrate, his mother and two of his siblings came for a visit. I don't believe any of them had been to Louisiana before. I remember my grandmother told me not to be rude to the waitress when I ordered a Barq's (she didn't realize it's a brand of root beer). We also used crab legs from dinner (the longest dinner on the planet) to decorate my dad's cake. It was that sort of birthday.

What stands out in my mind the most though is the tour of Saint Louis Cemetery #1. I'm not sure what possessed us to do this - June in New Orleans is probably not the best time to walk through a cemetery in the middle of the day but we did. Most of us did - if I remember correctly my parents didn't go but I'm not totally sure that's correct. I vividly remember seeing Marie Laveau's tomb, groups of three red Xs everywhere and offerings left to the Voodoo Queen. People would mark the tomb with the Xs or leave Madame Laveau something in hopes that her spirit would grant them a wish or good fortune. Some dispute that she's buried in the tomb that was highlighted on the tour. Honestly, her tomb made me nervous (I was 9 or 10 at the time).

New Orleans is famous for its above ground cemeteries often referred to as "cities of the dead." Families would build ornate tombs for burial. The tombs often resemble buildings (churches mostly) and look like mini cities. Many people believe that this was the practice because of the fact that New Orleans is below sea level (stories of bodies floating down the Mississippi are common on ghost and cemetery tours and there is truth to that as well). However, it's probably more likely that these cities of the dead exist because of the French and Spanish settlers of New Orleans. They brought their practice of above ground tombs with them to the city and the tradition stayed. After seeing Père Lachaise cemetery today, I believe this more than I did before.

Cimetière du Père Lachaise is the largest cemetery in Paris and one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. The latter distinction is probably because of the number of famous people buried here: Edith Piaf (whom I visited today), Balzac, Proust, Colette, Sarah Bernhardt, and of course, Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison. Like the Eiffel Tower,
Père Lachaise is one of those places I've always wanted to visit. It may sound morbid but cemeteries like this are amazing places to see how we honor those that have left us. Families spent time and money to build these structures and you can see many are still lovingly cared for. The artistry among the tombs is amazing - sculptures, stained glass windows, ornate doors - these were not meant to be forgotten. It's not the final resting place of just the famous; the Emperor Napoleon declared that all people could be buried within the cemetery. 

Of course, it's the famous that people come to see (like me). I hopped on the Metro and easily found my way to the Père Lachaise stop and there I was, armed with a map (that was missing some key information like names of avenues and chemins (paths) that I would need to find my way around. I was able to procure an official map and ran into several of the same people along the way to find Jim Morrison and Edith Piaf's graves. It was like a weird version of a scavenger hunt; we spread out to find a particular grave (like Edith Piaf's - so hard to find) and then either point them out or give odd directions using other tombs or markers. I made it to Jim Morrison's grave with the help of four Canadians. Interestingly, they were not all together and found that they have a mutual acquaintance. I did not run into anyone I know today.

Jim Morrison died in Paris in 1971. I've read several different accounts of his death over the years. Some say he died of natural causes; others that he overdosed. Some people don't believe he's dead. He and Elvis are spotted all the time. There was no autopsy so there is no definitive cause of death. His grave has been vandalized and scandalized over the years. There is now a barrier around it and glass in front. People still leave items for him and drink whiskey when they find the grave. The tombs on either side are heavily graffitited, proving that even in death we can't have nice things. I've always had a soft spot in my heart for The Doors. When I think of L.A. in the 60s, they're who come to mind. I'm partial to "Love Street", "Love Her Madly" and "L.A. Woman". 

Morrison is not easy to find and that's on purpose. The amount of vandalism done to the area since he was buried there is extraordinary. For a long time there was no marker. The cemetery map is not the easiest thing to follow but I fell in with the Canadians and we made our way together. I think Morrison would have liked the fact that his grave has caused problems over the years. I wish I had brought my iPod with me today so I could have listened to a song or two.

I took a few pictures (including the graffitied tombs) and moved along. As I was walking towards the Avenue Circulaire, I was able to direct two groups to Jim Morrison - I helped! I made my way to Edith Piaf next (found with the assistance of two Italian girls I met as I came into the cemetery) and then onto Oscar Wilde.

Oscar Wilde's grave is another one that has undergone some changes in recent years. Wilde died while basically in exile in Paris following imprisonment on indecency charges. The tradition at his grave was for women to put on lipstick and kiss the tomb (this started sometime in the 1990s). Wes Craven depicts this in his contribution to the film Paris, Je T'aime. I'm a little sad that there's now glass and barriers up around his tomb. I feel like Oscar Wilde would have liked the attention. It hasn't stopped everyone; the tomb next to Wilde's has a broken cross on top of it because of someone trying to continue the tradition. There are some kisses far up on the sides above the glass. Definitely adds to the pilgrimage feel of visiting.

But I also understand why his family made the choice to have the tomb cleaned and protected. It's their right to preserve the tomb as they see fit just as it was for Jim Morrison's family. If they're not preserved there won't be anything left for the next generation of "pilgrims". 

I ended my day back along the Seine (navigating the Paris Metro like a boss). I found an artist near the Louvre who was painting lovely watercolors and I purchased a few from her. We discussed Montmartre a bit (tomorrow's destination). She told me to take time to sit in one of the parks and enjoy the view. We also discussed the weather (I guess this is normal everywhere). It didn't rain today but was overcast and cool - perfect cemetery walking weather.  

So tomorrow - Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur. And yes, I'm planning to go to the Café des 2 Moulins (Two Windmills) where Amélie worked. Don't judge.

Audrey Hepburn makes it looks so easy

I love the movie Funny Face starring Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire. It's probably one of the first movies I saw that was set in Paris (maybe this is where the obsession began). Audrey Hepburn plays a super serious bookstore clerk who is "discovered" by Fred Astaire, a photographer for the fictional Quality magazine. He decides she's the next "Quality Woman" and this translates into a trip to Paris, several musical numbers, a fashion designer designing a line for her, a philosopher only interested in one thing (and it's not Audrey's ideas on empathy), and an awkward love story between Audrey and Fred. Oh and the magnificent Kay Thompson as the magazine's editor (yes, she also wrote the Eloise books).

This trio makes Paris look so easy. Especially Audrey's character, Jo. She's never been before but she magically knows where everything is. In one of the less "here's a song so Fred Astaire can dance" musical numbers, the three belt out "Bonjour Paris" as they tour around the entire city in the space of hours.

I don't actually think this is how Paris works. I guess you could do all these things in the space of hours (even if you literally landed 10 minutes ago since jet lag didn't exist in 1957) but it would be a challenge. I doubt you'd enjoy yourself very much either. I spent much of my first full day in Paris getting slightly turned around going from the Arc de Triomphe to the Eiffel Tower. I found my way but I would not have been able to make to all the other places Kay, Fred, and Audrey visit if my rate of wrong turns continued at the pace of the day. And I would have ended up being a huge grump.

Improbability aside, my favorite thing about this song is that they all end up at the Eiffel Tower (and there's the weird "let's not fight" part of the song). How could they not end up there? The Eiffel Tower is the symbol Paris (and France) for many people. It's certainly one place that I have dreamed of visiting since I was a little girl. I felt like I was playing peek-a-boo with it all morning. As I walked toward the Arc de Triomphe, I could see the very top of the Eiffel Tower from behind some trees. And then it disappeared. Then I'd see it again and it would disappear again like it was taunting me. It should be easy to find arguably the most famous monument in the world right?

You would think that's true but this is me and well, I sometimes make easy things extremely difficult.

I may love maps but I have a terrible sense of direction (most of the time) and my map reading skills leave something to be desired. Of course, my smartphone is stupid here in France so I'm unable to use it for anything. It's both frustrating and liberating to not be able to use it - I could have used it today that's for sure. Anyway, I had directions from one to the other but somehow missed one of the turns so I ended up walking along Avenue Victor Hugo and then didn't know where to go. I wasn't really going in the right direction nor was I going in the wrong direction. I eventually figured out which street was the right one and ended up taking a very circuitous path to get to the Eiffel Tower. I finally found my way to Avenue d'Iena and voila - the Eiffel Tower was just across the Seine.

I have been imagining being at the Eiffel Tower for most of my life. I've been having a hard time describing the feeling of this visit. Everything I come up with sounds like a cliche or isn't quite right. Just seeing it was awe-inspiring. The engineering and construction alone is amazing. And then add to it that you can go to the summit - the very top of the tower at something like 917 feet. Crazy.

This was the only ticket I purchased before arriving. I didn't want to wait in line all afternoon (just part of the afternoon). It took about 30 minutes to get from the base to the first stop on the second level. Here you can take pictures, buy some Eiffel Tower merchandise, and have a coffee. If you continue around, you join the line to le Sommet, the very top of the Eiffel Tower. It's only accessible by elevator (you can walk to the first and second levels if you'd like - I believe it's 300 stairs to the second level) and you have to make sure to buy the right ticket. I'm not really afraid of heights but I'm not a huge fan of weird elevators or lifts that operate on the side of mountains or 900+ feet structures (ask my family about that time we went on the Incline Railway in Chattanooga). I stayed towards the back during the ride to the second level but was front and center for the ride to the summit. Thankfully, I couldn't understand anyone in the lift with me. I'm certain they were making jokes about cables snapping and us plummeting to our deaths.

It was so worth it to go to the summit - scary but worth it. The view was stunning and I rewarded myself with a glass of champagne. There were a few people standing against the tower. They didn't want to step closer to the edge and look out. As I stepped closer, I asked an American couple to take my picture. The woman agreed but I noticed her hands shaking a bit. She said she didn't want to get too close to the edge so she'd be happy to stand back and take a few pictures. I stayed on the summit for a little while longer and then made my way back down. Less nervous this time but still in awe of being at the top of the Eiffel Tower.

The day was perfectly sunny and warm - like something out of Funny Face. I like to think it was a little "Bonjour Paris" just for me.

Bonjour Paris!

Bonjour Island readers! I've made it to Paris and have not fallen asleep yet (it was a very long travel day and half). Even though it will still be light out, I will probably be in bed by 8 pm - don't judge.

I spent today wandering around my neighborhood getting a feel for things. I found two of the Metro stations, the grocery store, and two shopping centers (for lack of a better word). And cafe after cafe after cafe. It's a nice area - easy to get around and find my way back to le petit studio.




I rented a very petit studio for the week in the 8th and 9th arrondissements. The Paris Opera is not too far from here. I'm right near Boulevard Haussmann and two Metro stations so getting around is going to be easy. However, I think the stairs in the building may actually be the death of me. I don't know what I was expecting - I'm on the sixth floor of a very old building. I guess the stairs will balance all the macarons and cheese that I plan to eat while here. The room is tiny and will be perfect for when I'm gone all day and just need a place to sleep at the end of the day (if I can make it to the top floor). And also not fight with the key. It's an ongoing battle that I intend to win.

I can't say enough good things about my host. I found out today that he's lived in Louisiana (grew up there? - I'm still a little unsure of that part), went to LSU, and owns condos in Baton Rouge. Small world, I guess. His cousin, Pascal, picked me up at the airport and told me all of this. We talked about Louisiana and he made some recommendations for what to do while I'm here. He also suggested that I dedicate my blog this week to observing the French and writing about them. He thought I'd find that the cliches are true!

After getting settled in le petit studio, I walked around the neighborhood a bit and got some lunch. It just so happened that there was a park not too far from the place I stopped. I got my lunch to go and went and sat in the Square Louis XVI. It is the only public place in Paris named for the monarch and it contains the atoning chapel which memorializes Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette (they were originally buried here). It was nice to just sit in a quiet park off a very busy street and not do anything. People watching is going to be my new favorite thing. This is what I'm here to experience and enjoy.

It doesn't hurt that I purchased a pistachio macaron (not from Laduree - that's tomorrow) too. Heavenly.

Tomorrow: the Eiffel Tower and who knows what else?!

A Tale of Two Concerts, Part 2: There was a high school reunion at Wolf Trap and it was actually fun

High school reunions are supposed to be fun right? That's what movies teach us at least. You go to your reunion, have a few drinks, take a look at how everyone has aged, and realize you're doing okay. You didn't like most of these people in high school but they turned into decent people that you don't mind seeing every five years. I haven't attended any of my high school reunions so I don't really have any personal experience with this. I imagine that every high school reunion is a cross between Romy & Michelle and Grosse Pointe Blank.

I was thinking about this as I sat at Wolf Trap waiting for The Psychedelic Furs to take the stage to open for The Go-Go's. Since almost every reunion movie I've seen is about people who graduated high school in the 80s, this is the soundtrack of their lives. The Psychedelic Furs are probably best known for the song "Pretty in Pink." It was used as the title song for the Molly Ringwald/John Hughes film Pretty in Pink. The song wasn't written for the film; Molly Ringwald was a fan of the band and suggested that Hughes use it in the film. He did and the song and the movie became forever linked. The song was actually re-recorded to better fit the film because it's actually not about an innocent high school girl who falls in love with a popular boy. It's about a girl who sleeps around and thinks everyone loves her but they don't. Not really high school love triangle/prom themed.

I've always liked The Psychedelic Furs; "Pretty in Pink" was the first song of theirs I ever heard but I've come to love "All This And Nothing", "Love My Way", "Heartbreak Beat", and "Heaven" (definitely rock and roll love songs). The Furs were part of that post-punk era of British bands that lead into New Wave so all their songs are a little moody, arty, and sound much sadder than they actually are. Watching the crowd last night, I could see them all in their bedrooms as teenagers obsessively listening to these songs and attaching them to someone - the boy they secretly liked or their first love. Or maybe "All This And Nothing" or "Heaven" was the song at their prom but they stayed home or didn't have anyone to dance with. I don't know everyone's life but I definitely felt like I was magically transported to 1986.

The high school reunion feeling continued as The Go-Go's took the stage. By this time we had moved passed the "I'm Erin and I'm a (fill in the blank) now. No I don't have children. Yes, I was in theatre in high school" phase of the reunion and into the "everyone has had a few and loosened up and are dancing" phase.
I could spot the popular girls, the punk girls, and the artsy boys. And they were all dancing together and singing along. Everyone was getting along and having a good time because that's what happens at reunions - everyone gets along. Anita even got her wish for a Belinda Carlisle song (although I don't think it was the one she wanted) and there was a sort of odd/sort of awesome mash-up of "We've Got the Beat" and "Rock and Roll All Night." I'm also not entirely sure that Belinda Carlisle has aged at all. We were pretty close and she looks exactly the same. She also danced around like a pixie the entire time. Jane Wiedlin will always be my favorite Go-Go; she looked like she was wearing a Star Trek uniform. She and the bass player (new member) had some awesome moments. The Go-Go's are the band you want to be friends with.They could probably teach me how to correctly apply eyeliner.

Maybe live concerts serve as some sort of catharsis for people. When you hear "Love My Way" live you come to accept that high school wasn't that terrible (or was and you're glad it's over) and you're a better, more interesting person now. Listening to "Head Over Heels" or "Vacation" or "Mad About You" may remind you of the awesomeness/agony of crushes and first loves and "We Got the Beat" reminds us that it's all about having fun and being amazing. Regardless, sometimes it's fun just to be nostalgic and dance like no one is watching.

I'm off to Paris on Monday for a much needed vacation. I'm going to try to post a few times while I'm there but I make no promises. Au revoir Island readers!

A Tale of Two Concerts Part 1: How are things on the Best Coast?

There is nothing better than seeing your favorite band live. Hearing a song live, especially one you've been obsessively listening to, changes the it. I've always felt it becomes more real and it's a cool feeling to hear hundreds or thousands of your new best friends sing it with you. You're with other people who get it and your music love. Every time I leave a concert, I feel like the universe makes sense. And I dream of being in a rock band.

Of course, I'm also an old lady concert goer. Sometimes I just want to punch my fellow concert goers in the face (and you know I'm not the violent type) because they're acting like morons. Just because we both really like this band doesn't mean I'm cool with you spilling your drink on me or yelling out "Freebird" during a song break. But just like I'm able to leave my Type A planner behind while I'm in Paris, I can keep the old lady hidden too.

I love the band Best Coast (favorite songs: "Boyfriend" and "Up All Night"). Best Coast sounds like southern California – hazy (it could be the smog), lo-fi, dreamy, sunny, and a little sad all at the same time. The guitars make me think of Beach Boys classics like “Surfer Girl” and “In My Room” both of which I love dearly. There's also an early Doors vibe going on (think "Love Street" or "Hello, I Love You" era Doors). It’s like surfer music for people who don’t surf and may not even like the beach. Their first album came out around the time I moved to California and I stalked the song "Boyfriend" on the radio (that's what I do when I love a song - I listen to it 500 times a day). The lyrics are killer. Try listening to a song and not identify with something Bethany is singing about.

Anyway, Best Coast played at the 9:30 Club last week and it was awesome. I wasn't going to go originally but my friend, Upendra, convinced me that I couldn't possibly miss seeing one of my favorite bands. Being the good friend that he is, he even bought me a ticket for my birthday. His girlfriend, Melanie, came too. They were part of my Record Store Day group this year. Melanie and I both purchased the David Bowie release Drive-In Saturday Night - Bowie has a way of bringing us all together. And Melanie loves Jack White (possibly more than I do).
If you've never been to the 9:30 Club, go. I'll go with you if you'd like (I need a concert friend for Loretta Lynn in July if anyone is interested). It was just named Best Big Room in America by Rolling Stone. It's one of my favorite concert venues in DC and you can get a free cupcake on your birthday (if you're part of their rewards program Friends with Benefits as both Melanie and I are). The cupcake is a homemade version of a Hostess cupcake and was good. It would have been better if it hadn't been cold.

Back to Best Coast: Bethany Cosentino has a pretty specific style and there were a lot of Bethany look alikes or at least DC girls trying to look like they're from SoCal and in a rock band. We were not the oldest people there (although that was a possibly when we first arrived) but I'm assuming those were parents waiting for their kids. I was also surprised at the number of guys with their girlfriends who also seemed to honestly like the music. Best Coast must be a band that couples can love together. Odd considering that many of their songs are about getting your heart stomped on. We made friends with the couple in front of us through a mutual love of Wayne's World and Melanie and I discovered that we are complimentary concert woo-ers (you know when you cheer for a band at the end of a song). This may or may not have gotten us a few looks but whatever - people need to understand the power of a good "wooooooo" at the end of a song. They closed the encore with "Boyfriend" - great end to a great concert. 

I've been to a lot of concerts this year but this is the first one where I truly enjoyed the entire experience. No old lady concert moments (Upendra had a backpack with him and I said nothing), singing along, discussing how people danced in the 80s (with visuals), and hanging out with friends. It was a great way to start my birthday celebrations off and felt like the start of summer. 

This weekend: A Tale of Two Concerts, Part 2: All rock songs are love songs (or something like that)